When using power or other dangerous tools, remember that everything centers on the augmenting part of the tool. Make sure no part of your body can potentially make contact with it while you make sure the object being processed makes proper contact with the work.

Rehearse and relax, do not allow the noise or vibration to fluster you, and never rush what does not need to be rushed.

Make sure power tools are unplugged when modifying them (like changing blades or bits). If your hands are feeding and moving towards a blade, something should stop your hands from hitting it if you slip; feed things with accessories like a push stick if your safety will be compromised.

Make sure tools are sharp and clean; dull blades can cause dangerously unexpected effects. Be aware of kickback; tools like routers and especially the table saw can throw objects back due to dull blades, improper feeding, or irregularities in materials.

Also, having an organised and comfortable workspace can help in doing precision work and preventing injury. A work bench is good for just this. If you do not have one, try to organise things nicely early on. It will save time, bring better results, and make things much easier on you. Good lighting will also be a big help.


Planning
DON'T WING IT! - seriously some of the most uglest arcades have come about from  taking a  "I'll design as I go..." process.  If you take nothing else from this site, take this: You need to plan!

Planning starts with Research - Decide what it is you want (what game(s) you want to play)  which dictates what monitor orientation you are building re Cab shape (horizontal or Vertical) - yes you can build a cab with a rotating monitor and interchangable CP, but if this is your first time (and it probably is if you are reading this) then just DON'T!  
If you do,  it' will probably get too hard and look ugly so you'll never complete it.

There is no rule that states this is the only cab you'll ever own, or build - In fact most arcade builders get the bug and build several, the previous  often being sold to pay for the next build - that's how we got started  (yes for some this  does become an obsession .. you've been warned).

Keep it simple and achievable and you and your friends will be playing on it in no time, and you'll have gained some new skills that can be applied to the next build (or even just other projects).

Design the cab - either research and find a cab shape you like (and locate the plan's here)  or  design your own (this approach can be fraught with risks if you have never built one or restored a cab before).

Consider where it's going to live after you have built it - what constraints are there in getting the completed cab to its final home - I have seen many wonderful builds thwarted by a narrow ranch slider or low ceiling above the stairs to the 2nd floor
I bought a Sega Megalow 410 candy cab (41" screen) a few years back, was stoked, only to find on getting it home, there wasn't enough clearence down the side of the house to get it to the games room - had to pay for a small crane to lift it over the fence from the neighbours house - my "great deal" turned out to be quite expensive and unpopular with the missus.

Plan the build - work out the processes (before cutting anything) that you will take to put the cab together, workout what materials (size/volume etc)  you need before going to Bunnings / Mitre10 / Hammer Hardware etc.
Plan the fastening approach - screws, dowels or brackets, type of glue to use etc
When to do what - e.g. when to cut the T-molding slot (early on is easiest, but if you have to move the work around after, you have weakend the edges and could damage it more easily).

Plan to work  when you have hours (not minutes), you need time to consider each step, measure twice then recheck again before cutting or modifying anything - I know this seems common sense, but trust me, in the heat of the project common sense becomes an oxymoron. 

The Main Tools Required for Building the Cab:
     
Pens, Tape Measure, Square, Screw Drivers, Pliers, Paint Brush, Sharp Knife, Sandpaper, Clamps and Hand Saw are the absolute minimium
  

But you really need the following as well:
     
Circular Saw, Portable Driill, Jigsaw and Router.

..and to make the build easier / finished product likely look better
   
Dremel (rotary tool), Drop Saw, and Electric Sander.

Professional builders will also use a Table Saw, Router Table, Paint Booth / Spray Gun and CNC machine.


Fasteners
Loosely defined, a fastener joins objects together. Various kinds of fasteners can be used in putting various pieces together.

Screws and Bolts
Nails are not recommended; spiral edges on screws and bolts hold things together strongly, so use those instead.

Screws and bolts come in two types that impact how they look on the surface of where they are attached. Some have a non-tapered head that rests on the surface. Others have a tapered head and are meant to sink (receased) into the surface.
A drill bit with a countersink (or a larger bit with shallow use) can help in installing tapered screws and bolts. Note that non-tapered heads can be sunk too using a flat bit.

 

Dowels
Dowels are solid cylinders usually made of wood, plastic, or metal used in interlocking two pieces with snug holes drilled for each end. They and the meeting pieces are usually all glued together. Their main advantage is leaving no sign of their use in the final product (like a screw hole) - reduces effort in sanding and gives a better paint finish, but you are swapping sanding and painting effort for more effort in planning / drilling and glueing at the front of the process , neither approach is faster than the other.

Dowel plugs can be used to smooth and hide holes (even for screws).

Precision is essential in using dowels. Measuring and marking placements and making holes with a handheld drill alone will often have disappointing results. A jig or some dowel centers and a drill with an accurate level guide are needed for good hidden joints; a drill press does the work even better. Use dowel joints sparingly as many of them can work against each other in bringing things together.

   

Glue
Glue will help in permanently securing pieces together. It should cover all portions of the areas coming together. Unless large surfaces are being glued together, it should be used in conjunction with interlocking produced using dowels or shaping that increases surface area.

Clamps and/or weights should be used while drying to make the bond stronger.

Take steps to make sure different pieces fit together well before and while gluing because, when it dries, it is generally permanent.
 
Excess glue (which is usually a product of using an adequate amount of glue) can be messy. Wiping it away with a dry cloth can rub it into the surface and should not be done. Wiping it away with a damp cloth is fine if the wood is not affected by water (like MDF is).
Using a chisel or sandpaper can help get rid of it after it dries. It is often best to use masking tape around joints before gluing to prevent much of the problem in the first place.

Glue can make a more sleek design than screws, but tends to be a bit more difficult in building, and can make the things less modifiable. Note that there are different glues designed for other materials like acrylic too.

Clamps
Clamps can be seen as a fastener as well as tools, they act as extra strong hands that hold things in a certain position and come in a large variety of shapes and sizes.
In addition to helping glue things togther, they can hold many objects in place to make working them easier, safer, and more exact. In some circumstances, a work piece can go out of control when it is not secured using clamps. They can also attach other objects to use as guides in working on different pieces (ie help make jigs and fixtures).

Clamps are more useful and essential than you think, worth the investment - you will need them for you arcade project.

Use some padding like cardboard or scrap wood on clamping points to prevent unwanted indentations / marks or other damage.

Tape
A couple different forms of tape can be a huge help.
Masking tape masks surfaces from things like glue, finish, and abrasives. It makes cleaning glue easier. It protects areas to which you do no want to add a finish; it can make patterns when painting. And it can protect completed spots from sanding and sawing. Plus it can be used to make labels.

Double-sided (double-stick) tape has adhesive on both sides of the tape. It is great for attaching templates and assuring things stay in desired locations.

OK, now we are ready to start a cab build:

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